Warning - Slightly long
There are times when you feel woefully conscious of your shortcomings. This is one such time when I really, really feel conscious of the fact that I am not so good at expressing myself in words and letters, and how I wish I was more articulate.
Yesterday night, I decided to write a not-so-long post about my trip to Ladakh and ended up staring at a blank screen for a long, long time. While the truth remains that I am not very good at putting down thoughts on paper, the larger fact is that no words can do justice to the Ladakh experience; to the landscape and panorama that we witnessed.
Ever since I have returned, people have barraged me with curious “how was it?” and I have struggled to find the right answer. Beautiful, amazing, brilliant. These are some of the adjectives I used. But the truth is that you have to go there to understand, and that is precisely what I have started telling people.
Ever since I had the trip planned, people kept telling me to take pictures – millions of them. However, trying to capture the landscape in photographs is not only a futile exercise, at times it even seems insulting.
Honestly, it is impossible to write about the trip and do justice to it. Chandni, who also went for a Ladakh trip recently, has written about her here and I wish I could be as expressive or articulate. So here I am, not sure of what to write and what to say.
I could write about the itinerary – that we stayed in the remote Vashisht (4 kms from Manali) for 3 days, before leaving for Leh by road, covering it over 3 days (easily the best part of the trip), and then spent 8 days in and around Leh.
Or, I could write about the innumerable instances when we were awestruck and dumb-founded by the sheer beauty of the landscape in front of us, and the absolute disbelief that it triggered within us with respect to its existence.
Or, I could write about the number of hours that we spent just staring at the moon and the stars completely mesmerized by their proximity and charsima.
Or, I could talk about the numerous instances when we were humbled by the hospitality and warmth of the local people that we encountered through our journey.
Or, I could talk about the times when we were embarrassed by foreign tourists (who easily outnumbered their Indian counterparts 10 to 1) with their genuine curiosity about where we Indians go for holidays, if not here.
Or, I could talk about the things to do and places to visit, which is pretty much standard (but please, please definitely do the Manali-Leh route by road and also do the Army Hall of Fame museum in Leh)
I could write and write pages, perhaps even a book. But none, absolutely none of it would prove to be adequate in expressing my thoughts, feelings and experiences. The only alternative is for you to go there and find out. So, I have decided not to write the factual details about the trip at all.
Instead, let me put down a few snippets, quotes and experiences from the journey, which might help in propelling you from your chair into forming your own travel plan for there.
*****
1. At Vashisht, we were having a late night conversation with Chris, a Swedish bloke, and the owner of the Bodh Niwas guest house, where we were staying. Chris was telling us about his love for mountains, and how we would definitely love Ladakh.
When we asked him about his return to Sweden, he said “You know, I have been traveling across the globe ever since I got onto my own 2 feet. Now, after 10 years and 46 countries, I have finally found my paradise. I am not going anywhere. Am staying put in the Himalayas here”
*****
2. Both Chotu (school pal and co-traveler) and I, suffer from a syndrome we call motion sleepiness. Basically, it is what we call our talent of being able to fall asleep in an instant in any moving vehicle– be it a flight, train, bus or car. So, we had a lengthy argument on which one of us should take the backseat on the Manali-Leh route, since the front seat taker is not supposed to sleep.
As it turned out, none of us could sleep a wink on the route, and at any point of time during the trip, we could have been spotted wide-eyed and open-mouthed, staring at the landscape and swearing in disbelief.
*****
3. On one particular spot on the Manali-Leh route, we ask Ustadji, our driver to stop so that we could take pictures. We get out of the car and sit on a rock by the side of the road. Minutes pass, and we stay motionless, staring at the scene.
After about 20 minutes, I am jolted by Ustadji’s hand on my shoulder. “Sirjee, chalein? Warna late ho jayenge…”. Shaken from our reverie, we reluctantly get into the car and Ustadji drives off. A few moments later, he remarks “Sir, aapne photu to liye hi nahi…”
*****
4. While rafting on the grade-3 rapids of Zanskar river, I am having a conversation with Phil, an Aussie who is now a school teacher in France, and is traveling with Liam, his super-enthu 12-year-old. We are talking about the places we both have been to in Australia and Europe.
“Have you seen the Swiss Alps?” he asked.
“No, not yet,” I said.
“Been to the Andes? To the Nile cruise? To the Rocky Mountains?”
“No, no and no,” I said, with a smile.
“Then you have got your planning all wrong, buddy. You should see everything else, and then come here, and then just stop traveling. Now, after this, you won’t enjoy the other places so much”
*****
5. “I went to Thailand and every 4th tourist I saw there was an Indian. And it’s almost shocking that you guys are not here at all”
- An anonymous Israeli tourist
*****
6. “Now I know why so much poetry and so many songs have been written about the moon”
– Me, in Keylong, after waking up from a hypnotic spell cast on me by the moon
*****
7. “Sir, aap hi batao - jo aadmi yahan reh leta hai, usko aur koi jagah bhayega kya?”
- Yung, our driver in Leh, when asked why he did not go to a warmer place during winters.
*****
8. “It almost seems like you are in an art exhibition, and with each step you take, God the artist, is showing off a new painting to you, each one different and better than the last one”
- An American, about the Manali-Leh route.
*****
Honestly, God has cracked it. He may have created vices, He may have created evil, He may have created poverty and disease. He may even have created people like Prakash Karat, Mayawati and George W Bush. But He has more than covered up with his artistry. Visit Ladakh, if you don’t believe me or don’t agree with me.
Now, I sincerely hope that the average Indian wakes up to the fact that there is a beanstalk which leads to heaven, right there in his own backyard.